Category: 19th Century architecture

Buildings from the 1800s, Victorian architecture.

The Coach, Clerkenwell, EC1

Here is “The Coach” on Ray Street in Clerkenwell.

“The Coach” Clerkenwell, Sketched 20th June 2024 in Sketchbook 14

I sketched this after I had sketched “Gunmakers” in nearby Eyre Street Hill. Above the pub sign is a model, just visible on the right of my drawing.

The Coach pub sign: a gun carriage?

The model is a gun carriage. I wondered what the connection was to The Coach, and if there was any connection to Gunmakers on Eyre Street Hill. But no, it is the symbol of The Cannon Brewery. This brewery was founded 1720, in nearby St John Street. It was acquired by Taylor Walker in 1930. I have this information from http://breweryhistory.com. So that explains the cannon.

At the top of the pub, the medallion names the pub as “The Coach and Horses” in white relief work.

The pub website says: “The Coach was established in 1790, and has been at the heart of the lively Clerkenwell community for generations.”

British History Online describes a pub called The Cock Inn, which was part of a sale in 1695:

At the time of the sale [1695], the land was mostly taken up by two fields of pasture: Gardiner’s Field to the north and the larger Sir John Oldcastle’s Field to the south. There was a cluster of buildings and a large rubbish dump or laystall in the south-eastern corner, in the area of Hockley-in-the-Hole. Chief of these buildings was the Cock inn, the forerunner of the present-day Coach and Horses in Ray Street.

https://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol47/pp22-51

The current building dates from 1897 according to this source:

All the eighteenth-century public houses in the area have been rebuilt or have disappeared entirely. The Apple Tree in Mount Pleasant was rebuilt in the 1870s, and the Coach and Horses in Ray Street in 1897

https://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol47/pp22-51

So it looks as though the pub was there already in 1695 as the Cock Inn, was established as The Coach and Horses in 1790 (according to the pub website) and rebuilt in 1897. It was renamed The Coach in 2018.

Having closed on 31st July 2015, this pub reopened on 16th January 2018 as the Coach with its Taylor Walker/Cannon Brewery sign frame retained.

https://londonwiki.co.uk/LondonPubs/Clerkenwell/CoachHorses.shtml

People sometimes ask me how I determine the viewpoint in my sketches. Often, as here, it is determined by practical rather than artistic considerations. I need somewhere to sketch, out of the way, not in the road, and with a clear view. I don’t carry a seat, though sometimes I wish that I did. But here, like a miracle, a seat presented itself.

This perhaps had been a phone junction box, but no more. Now it was a seat. I commandeered it.

I did the pen-and-ink on location and then added the colour back at my desk.

The colours here are:

  • Fired Gold Ochre for the bricks
  • Ultramarine Blue plus Phthalo Blue Turquoise for the sky
  • All greys and blacks are Burnt Umber with the blues
  • There’s a bit of Mars Yellow in some of the brickwork and the pillars.

All watercolours from Daniel Smith.

Sketchbook spread

Here are maps to show where it is. It looks like a great pub, with a serious gastronomy menu. https://thecoachclerkenwell.co.uk/

Click here to see more pubs that I’ve drawn.

Gunmakers, Eyre Street Hill EC1R

Here is the pub “Gunmakers” in Eyre Street Hill, Farringdon.

“Gunmakers” in Eyre Street Hill EC1R, sketched 20th June 2024 in sketchbook 14

Eyre Street Hill is a small sloping street in Farringdon, within the triangle made by Rosebery Avenue, Clerkenwell Road, and the Farringdon Road.

It slopes down to the River Fleet which is now below ground. I marked the approximate route of the Fleet on the map below:

It is a very old street, laid out in the 1720s as “Little Bath Street”. “British History Online” contains a detailed history of the area. This tells me that here and to the north was called “Coldbath Fields” in around 1719. The small houses in Eyre St were beside the Cold Bath, “a privately run hydropathic establishment opened in the late 1690”. This was on the edge of town. But then the came a distillery, a smallpox hospital and a workhouse.

“On the north-western ground, now largely occupied by Mount Pleasant Sorting Office, a distillery was built in the 1730s, and a smallpox hospital in the 1750s. These were joined towards the end of the eighteenth century by the prison, the Middlesex House of Correction, which became notorious for the brutality of its regime. South of the Cold Bath, near the old and insalubrious quarter called Hockley-in-the-Hole, the parish workhouse, built in the 1720s, was greatly enlarged in 1790.”

British History Online (see reference below)

Then Rosebery Avenue and Farringdon Road were built, with much demolition and reconstruction. By the beginning of the twentieth century, this area became part of “Little Italy”, a centre of the Italian Community. St Peter’s Church, on Clerkenwell Road, is still “the Italian Church”.

I can find no reference to this pub, or to gunmaking in the area. The building looks like one of the ones built in 1812:

The sun catches the castellated building.

“Today the oldest structures are the small, single-bay houses with shopfronts at Nos 33–37, dating from the early nineteenth century and fairly typical of the rebuilding that took place in the area at that time. Nos 33 and 35 were erected as a pair around 1812 by Thomas Abbott, builder, of Leather Lane.”

British History Online (see reference below)

In the right background of my drawing is a magnificent castellated building, now obscured by the newly-built “Ruby Stella Hotel” .

I was sketching, appropriately enough, in “Summers Street”. It was 20 June and the first sun of summer arrived. The pub was doing a brisk trade.

After about an hour of drawing on location, I added the colour at my desk later.

Sketchbook 14

All quotes are from British History Online Volume 47, pages 22-51 with this reference:

‘West of Farringdon Road’, Survey of London: Volume 47, Northern Clerkenwell and Pentonville, (London, 2008), pp. 22-51. British History Online https://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol47/pp22-51 [accessed 22 June 2024].

Christ Church, Esher, KT10

Christ Church Esher stands on the top of a hill, near the intersection of roads that marks Esher town centre.

Christ Church, Church Street, Esher, Surrey, KT10 8 QS. Sketched 28 May 2024, in Sketchbook 14

The church has a “splayed foot” spire.

SPLAYED-FOOT: variation of the broach form, found in England principally in the south-east, in which the four cardinal faces are splayed out near their bases, to cover the corners, while oblique (or intermediate) faces taper away to a point.

BROACH: starting from a square base, then carried into an octagonal section by means of triangular faces.

– Pevsner’s Architectural Glossary, page 116, under “SPIRE”

This simple and elegant geometry turned out to be rather tricky to draw. I worked hard to get the shape of the spire correct.

Sketching the spire of Christ Church

The church was built in 1853-1854 to the design of Benjamin Ferrey (1810-1880) according to its Historic England listing entry. Ferrey studied under A.W.N. Pugin1, and like Pugin, designed in the style known as “Gothic Revival”. Christ Church was built because the growing congregation could no longer be housed in the smaller St George’s, a little way down the hill.

I sketched the church on location and added the colour later. The colours are:

  • Mars Yellow
  • Green Gold
  • Phthalo Blue Turquoise

I used just three colours, all Daniel Smith. I used gold paint for the clock. The clock is on the roof of the spire, which is remarkable. Usually the clock is on the tower, below the spire. So I wanted to put it in and show its unusual location.

Here is a sketch map of the area.

See this post for my sketch of St George’s, this post for the Tin Tabernacle in West End Esher, and this post for sketches of the council housing in Lower Green.

References

Historic England Listing Entry: https://historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1188268?section=comments-and-photos downloaded 7th June 2024, contains also many photos of the interior of Christ Church.

Ferrey’s biography is on Wikipedia, and also on “The Victorian Web” at this link: https://victorianweb.org/art/architecture/ferrey/

1A.W.N. Pugin designed, amongst other things, the inside of the Houses of Parliament: https://heritagecollections.parliament.uk/stories/the-architects-barry-pugin-and-scott/. The Houses of Parliament are a classic example of Gothic Revival Style. The Houses of Parliament were designed by a team consisting of Charles Barry, A.W.N. Pugin and later Giles Gilbert Scott.

Wycliffe Hall west side, Oxford OX2

Wycliffe Hall is a “permanent private hall” in the University of Oxford. A permanent private hall is like a college, in that it provides accommodation and tuition for its students. The difference is that a college is governed by its Master and Fellows, whereas the Hall is governed, at least in part, by the Church of England. It is an Anglican theological college, offering courses in philosophy and theology, and preparing people for ordination into the Church of England. John Wycliffe was a 14th century Bible translator, scholar and churchman.

I stayed there as a bed-and-breakfast guest, and sketched this picture from a bench beneath the branches of the plane tree in the gardens. Breakfast is served in the Talbot Rice Dining Room, shown on the bottom left of the picture. I was waiting for it to open.

Wycliffe Hall, West side, 09:40. In Sketchbook 14, 25 May 2024.

The “Talbot Rice Dining Hall” was built in 1980. The “Bulletin of the Association of British Theological and Philosophical Libraries” volume 16 number 2 dated June 2009*, contains a history of Wycliffe Hall, which informs me that this dining hall is named after Mervyn Talbot Rice (1899-1979), a “friend of Wycliffe”.

Sculpture portrait of Mervyn Gurney Talbot-Rice, in the dining room at Wycliffe Hall (Photo: Feb 2025)

When they say “friend of Wycliffe”, they must mean a friend of the the Hall, as John Wycliffe died 600 years ago. The Talbot Rice art gallery in Edinburgh is named after David Talbot Rice, one of Mervyn’s sons.

The breakfast room opened, and I took my place at one of the long tables. Behind me, three, or possibly four, men were already engaged in a serious conversation about Middle Eastern politics. Judging by the various accents, at least one of them was American. They took different points of view, and argued from personal experience, with courtesy. At another table, a group of young men and women were working out complicated logistics to do with rowing. Who was to be cox? Who was rowing? When? Where? Another man engaged the member of staff in a lively conversation on management techniques prevalent in a particular football team and how this may or may not affect their chances.

Between them all, I finished my porridge and headed back out to the plane tree to continue my picture.

I’ve sketched at Wycliffe Hall before. Click the image below to go to the post.

Wycliffe Hall Chapel

*The link to the Bulletin is here. Or if that doesn’t work, the pdf is below. The history of Wycliffe Hall starts on page 19.

abtpl-june-2009Download

The Sekforde – a commission

The Sekforde EC1R 0HA, Clerkenwell, sketched March 2024 12″ x 9″ [commission]

This watercolour was specially commissioned to celebrate a happy event.

The colours are:

  • Mars Yellow
  • Fired Gold Ochre
  • Ultramarine Blue
  • Burnt Umber
  • plus some Horadam Random Grey, some Daniel Smith Green Serpentine Genuine, and Pyrrol Red for the street sign and road marker.
  • Gold paint for the lettering.

Admire the bricks! I am very pleased with this effect. It was done by applying a rubber resist, “pebeo drawing gum” to the paper before I did any painting. The paint does not adhere to the rubber resist. When I had done all the colour, I rubbed off the rubber resist and hey presto! bricks.

Thank you to my client for their encouraging words and for inspiring me to make this picture of The Sekforde. Here are some details of the drawing.

I have sketched The Sekforde previously, see this link: The Sekforde, Clerkenwell

UPDATE:

My client kindly sent me photos of the framed picture!

Cambridge Hall, Tin Tabernacle, Kilburn NW6 5BA

I was reading about “tin tabernacles” having sketched the “Tin Tabernacle” in Esher. I discovered, via a Historic England blog article, that there is a Tin Tabernacle in Kilburn in London. So I went to have a look. It is an “iron church” built of galvanised corrugated iron in 1863. It used to have a steeple, but that has disappeared.

Here it is now:

Cambridge Hall, Cambridge Avenue, Kilburn NW6 5BA, sketched 28 February 2024 3pm in sketchbook 14

The building was built as a church, and more recently was a centre for Sea Cadets. Its future is under discussion, according to an article on the London Historic Buildings Trust site (LHBT).

The site is owned by Notting Hill Genesis Housing Association (NHG).  LHBT are currently working with NHG and the Sea Cadets, supported by Historic England and the Conservation Officer at Brent Council, to explore how the building can be stabilised and used in the future.

https://londonhistoricbuildings.org.uk/index.php/tin-tabernacle-kilburn/

The latest date mentioned in this article is 2021, so I guess the exploration is still going on. It’s listed as a “current project” on their website. The building was looking a little precarious when I visited this year (February 2024). An alarm was sounding inside.

It is Grade II listed, and on the Heritage at Risk Register. The listing is on this link. It is currently an events venue, the website is:
http://tintabernaclekilburn.org/

Here are some photos of the outside:

The building is about 150m north of Kilburn Park underground station on the Bakerloo Line.

The London Historic Buildings site has a “Virtual Visit” link, so you can see what it looks like inside, and there is a timeline of the building (click below to see it, 2 pages PDF):

tin-tab-timeline-v2Download

It’s a building with a varied history. I wonder what will happen to it?

Sketch and notes in sketchbook 14

UPDATE: 6th March 2026

An article on “Ian Visits” says that the Ministry of Defence is funding the removal of the two training guns inside the church:

Their removal is now expected to make it easier to pursue restoration works and attract the significant external funding needed to repair the building and secure a sustainable future. The London Historic Buildings Trust is leading the restoration work with the aim of opening the Tin Tabernacle as an active community asset for Kilburn.

“Ian Visits” website: https://www.ianvisits.co.uk/articles/the-church-with-anti-aircraft-guns-kilburns-unusual-naval-relics-removed-88029/

6 St Chad’s Place – Jamboree WC1X

I went to sketch this place in a back alley near Kings Cross because I enjoyed the geometry of the roof, spotted on a morning run some time ago.

6 St Chad’s Place, Jamboree, London WC1X 9HH – sketched 6 February 2024 2pm in Sketchbook 14

This is “Jamboree” where there is live music, dancing and events: It is open Tuesday evening to Sunday.

“music forms from around the world, cabaret, European folk, dances.”

(https://www.jamboreevenue.co.uk/)

I was expecting the hidden alleyway to be deserted on a Tuesday lunchtime, and so it was for the first hour. But then it became suddenly busy. A small ambulance backed carefully down the alleyway in front of me and parked. Its doors opened and two paramedics went round to the back of the car. They lifted out their equipment and walked calmly off down the alley. After that excitement, a certain calm returned to the alley, insofar as calm is possible a few hundred metres from Kings Cross.

I carried on sketching, now working on the beer barrels to the left of the picture. But the calm did not last long. Two cars arrived and people dressed in orange hi-vis vests scrambled out. They unlocked a gate off the picture to the left, and went in, leaving their car on the pavement. Then a van arrived, it parked directly in front of me, and a further person in a hi-vis outfit got out. He looked across the bonnet of his van and saw me sketching. “Oh, sorry,” he said, “Am I in your way?” I said that yes, he kind of was. I stood ready, however, to concede the space to him, as he looked important and determined in his bright orange overalls and hard hat. But to my surprise he grinned at me, “Ten minutes! I’ll be just ten minutes!”. He rushed off through the gate where the other people had gone. I abandoned the beer barrels and worked on the roofs.

The roofs were quite a challenge, and they productively occupied the 8 minutes until the driver came rushing back out, looking triumphant, accompanied by a selection of the people who’d arrived earlier. “I told this woman I’d be ten minutes,” he explained to his entourage. He raised a hand to me in greeting, got into his car and rumbled off, leaving the other people standing on the cobbles. I asked them what they were working on. “The bridge,” they said. Oh yes, I was standing on a bridge. The train lines were below.

Annotated Google map of the location.

It’s in a labyrinth of roads and railway lines just to the east of Kings Cross mainline station.Here are some maps to show the location. Walk east from Kings Cross, about 10 minutes.

On the maps, the blue line represents the River Fleet, which is alongside the Kings Cross Road, underground. It flows from left to right across the map (West to East) and then heads South down to join the Thames beneath Blackfriars Bridge.

The river Fleet, before it became an underground sewer in 1825, flowed along the western side of Pancras Road and then eastward along the south side of the common, crossing the old highway (now Gray’s Inn Road) north of St. Chad’s Place.

‘Battle Bridge Estate’, in Survey of London: Volume 24, the Parish of St Pancras Part 4: King’s Cross Neighbourhood, ed. Walter H Godfrey and W McB. Marcham (London, 1952), pp. 102-113. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol24/pt4/pp102-113 [accessed 7 February 2024].

St Chad’s Place slopes down towards the River Fleet. This area was once the location of St Chad’s Well, a spring said to have health-giving properties. It operated from about 1815 to 1860. I found a picture in the London Picture Archives, reproduced below with their permission.

Image © London Metropolitan Archives, City of London Metropolitan Prints Collection LPA 006123 St Chads Well Catalogue No: SC_PZ_SP_01_556 Accession No: Saint Pancras P 01688 Date of execution: 1856
Record No: 305367 used with permission under licence dated 08/02/2024

The website “A London Inheritance” has an informative article about St Chad’s Place and the Well: https://alondoninheritance.com/london-streets/st-chads-place-and-a-lost-well/, which is well worth a read.

A river, a bridge, a well, a passage and a music venue. It’s amazing what you find.

Looking east from where I was sketching.
Street art in St Chad’s Place
In St Chad’s Place, looking North towards the Kings Cross Road.
North entrance of St Chad’s Place. The cyclist is coming out of St Chad’s Place and into the Kings Cross Road.
Street name in the Kings Cross Road

Here is work in progress on the sketch:

The colours are:

  • For the sky and pavement – a special new colour, Schminke Horadam “Random grey” – “formulated each year from surplus pigments”. This is the 2022 edition.
  • Rose madder permanent – also on the pavement
  • Mars Yellow
  • Ultramarine Blue
  • Green Serpentine Genuine
  • Buff Titanium
  • Fired Gold Ochre in the brickwork
  • Burnt Umber
Arches Aquarelle paper in a sketchbook made by Wyvern Bindery (Sketchbook 14).

“The House they Left Behind” London E14

I read an article in “A London Inheritance” about this house, and went off on an expedition to find it.

“The House they left Behind”, 27 Ropemakers Fields, London E14 8BX, sketched in Sketchbook 14 28th Jan 2024 at 2pm (Image copyright JaneSketching.com)

The London Inheritance article shows a 1986 photo taken by the author’s father. Painted on the side of the building was the sign:

THE HOUSE THEY LEFT BEHIND
BUILT 1857
RESTORED 1985

The sign has now been painted over. The wall, which is on the left of my drawing, is now completely white. But the name lives on and appears on current maps. Here is a map showing where the house is.

Map (c) OpenStreetMap contributors
Sketch map showing location of 27 Ropemakers Fields

The building is now residential, but was previously a pub. It was “left behind” by the bombs dropped on London by the Luftwaffe in the 1939-45 conflict. The website “Layers of London” provides maps of bomb damage in London. Here is the area.

Map showing bomb damage. Classified from Total Destruction (Black), through Seriously Damaged (Dark Red) to Clearance Areas (Green).
credit:
https://www.layersoflondon.org/map/overlays/bomb-damage-1945
Map provided by London Metropolitan Archives. Geo-referenced with the support of the National Library of Scotland 

The map is based on 1:2500 Ordnance Survey sheets originally published in 1916. The bomb damage was recorded on these maps by hand soon after it happened. The circle represents where a V2 rocket landed. The red area shows buildings that were classified as “seriously damaged – doubtful if repairable”. As you see, the pub, labelled “P.H.”and outlined in red, is shown as undamaged.

I found more information on Bomb Damage Maps from a National Geographic article on a book about the maps. This article also provides a detailed key to the colours on the map. The book is “The London County Council Bomb Damage Maps” by Laurence Ward.

“A diary entry included in the book, from architect Andrew Butler on April 20, 1941, gives an idea of what the work was like:

For the block I have started on—eight floors high with two flats on each floor—has had its whole face ripped off … I found it possible to stand on part of the roof. So, clutching a broken chimney, I surveyed the damage there. My notebook became very messy. What with the dust and soot, wet filth and the perspiration of fluster on my hands, it was difficult to read what I wrote. The notes served their purpose however when, after drying the book, I had to transcribe them into a report.”

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/bomb-damage-maps-reveal-londons-world-war-ii-devastation

The original maps are in the London Metropolitan Archives.

Here is my work in progress on the sketch. Thank you to the author of “A London Inheritance” for providing the stimulus for this expedition. Thank you also to the friends and family of local resident David Newell-Smith, on whose memorial bench I completed the sketch. His dates are given as 1937-2017. He would have been a boy when the bombs were falling.

Market Café, 2 Broadway Market, E8

Here is the Market Café, sketched from the “Cat and Mutton Bridge” on 19th January 2024.

Market Café, 2 Broadway Market, London E8. Sketched 19th January 2024, 15:30, in Sketchbook 14.

As you see, this building is the former pub, the “Sir Walter Scott”. A pub was on this site in 1836. The wording on the building says “rebuilt 1909”. It closed as a pub in 1999 according to “pubhistory.com”. The Market Café now operates from the ground floor.

The website of Broadway Market gives a history of this area. In the early 19th century, the canal was the major means of freight transport, until the coming of the railways in the 1840s.

In 1812 “The Regent Canal Act” was passed and the Regent’s Canal constructed. This final link was direct into the River Thames at Limehouse, completing the passageway of heavy freight to Birmingham Manchester and the entire industrial North. (It should be noted that this was at the time of horse-drawn stage coaches and ox-laden wagons).

The new Regents Canal became a central pivot for industry and supplies. Timber warehouses grew, Gas light and Coke companies were established and this once rural backwater had become a major hub of enterprise.

https://broadwaymarket.co.uk/history-part-1/

This “once rural backwater” evidently needed a pub. Sir Walter Scott was a Scottish historian, novelist, poet, and playwright. He died in 1832, which must have been around the time this pub was named and the area was growing in population and importance.

The National Library of Scotland provides a wonderful side-by-side map, so you can see how the area looked previously, alongside a modern map. Click the image below to go to their marvellous site. You can shift the images around and expand them: both maps change at once. It’s fascinating.

https://maps.nls.uk/geo/explore/side-by-side/#zoom=17.6&lat=51.53590&lon=-0.06196&layers=117746212&right=osm

I had a look at an 1870 OS map. The Public House “P.H.” existed here in 1870. The road currently called Broadway Market was called “Pritchards Road” then. You can see the rows of terraced houses along the canal, gone now, and the “Coal Wharf” and “Wood Wharf” which used to be on the south side of the canal.

Broadway Market is now a street of modern coffee shops and small enterprises, with a street market of stalls down the middle. The jeweller William Cheshire has a workshop at the south end of the street. Climpson Coffee are further up. There are bakers, grocers, greengrocers and an opticians. At the North end, Broadway Market gives onto London Fields, a lovely park, with a lido.

It’s a great area to explore.

Rheidol Rooms, London N1

Rheidol Rooms is a café in Islington, just North of the Regent’s Canal. I sketched it on a bright cold day.

Rheidol Rooms, 16 Rheidol Terrace, London N1 sketched 3pm 10 January 2024 in Sketchbook 14

The tree cast its image onto the café. The twigs is the shadow were so sharply defined that it was hard to distinguish the shadow from the tree.

Despite that bright blue sky, the temperature was 2 degrees C and there was a wind. I froze, and walked across to the café. Sadly, it was closed, but it looked like a really good café and I will go back. I finished the drawing at my desk.

The colours in the picture are:

  • Mars Yellow
  • Ultramarine Blue
  • Burnt Umber
  • Serpentine Genuine (green, for the window frames)
  • The grey and black is made from a mix of Ultramarine Blue and Burnt Umber

The café is at the junction of St Peter’s Street and Rheidol Terrace. It is in a 19th century row of terraced houses. “British History Online” indicates that this terrace was constructed in 1848-52.

Sketch map location of the Rheidol Rooms
Map (c) OpenStreetMap contributors

Reference: British History Online: the history of this area is here: A P Baggs, Diane K Bolton and Patricia E C Croot, ‘Islington: Growth, South-east Islington’, in A History of the County of Middlesex: Volume 8, Islington and Stoke Newington Parishes, ed. T F T Baker and C R Elrington (London, 1985), pp. 20-24. British History Online http://www.british-history.ac.uk/vch/middx/vol8/pp20-24 [accessed 11 January 2024].

“….the block bounded by St. Peter’s Street, Rheidol Terrace, and Cruden Street as far as the backs of houses in Queen’s Head Lane, with provision for 14 semi-detached and 74 terraced houses, was taken by James and Thomas Ward and built up by James Ward and sublessees. Leases for nos. 7-21 St. Peter’s Street, pairs of stuccoed villas originally called Angell Terrace after the Clothworkers’ surveyor, Samuel Angell, who probably laid out the estate, were granted in 1848 and for the rest of the block from 1848 to 1852.”